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Major Robert Rogers’ 28 “Rules of Ranging”


Roger’s Rangers

Rangers were organized in 1756 by Major Robert Rogers, a native of New Hampshire, who recruited nine companies of American colonists to fight for the British during the French and Indian War. Ranger techniques and methods of operation were an inherent characteristic of the American frontiersmen; however, Major Rogers was the first to capitalize on them and incorporate them into the fighting doctrine of a permanently organized fighting force.


In the French and Indian War (1754-1763), Robert Rogers developed the Ranger concept to an extent never known before. A soldier from boyhood, Rogers had a magnetic personality. Operating in the days when commanders personally recruited their men, he was articulate and persuasive, and knew his trade. He published a list of 28 common sense rules, and a set of standing orders stressing operational readiness, security, and tactics. 

The rules were the result of Rogers’ blend of Native American tactics and his own innovative combat techniques, ideas that were considered revolutionary by military standards of the time. Combined with intensive training and live fire exercises, these rules created a mobile, well trained force that was capable of living off the land around it in order to sustain itself for long periods of time.

Ranger commander Lt. Colonel William Darby read the rules to the 1st Ranger Battalion prior to action during World War II, and a modified version of the rules is followed by the 75th Ranger Regiment to this day, and they are considered as the model and “standing orders” for all Ranger activities.

A Plan of Discipline

As published in a 1769 Dublin edition

  1. All Rangers are to be subject to the rules and articles of war; to appear at roll- call every evening, on their own parade, equipped, each with a firelock, sixty rounds of powder and ball, and a hatchet, at which time an officer from each company is to inspect the same, to see they are in order, so as to be ready on any emergency to march at a minute’s warning; and before they are dismissed, the necessary guards are to be draughted and scouts for the next day appointed.
  2. Whenever you are ordered out to the enemies forts or frontiers for discoveries, if your number be small, march in a single file, keeping at such distance from each other as to prevent one shot from killing two men, sending one man, or more, forward, and the like on each side, at the distance of twenty yards from the main body, if the ground you march over will admit of it, to give the signal to the officer of the approach of an enemy, and of their number.
  3. If you march over marshes or soft ground, change your position, and march abreast of each other to prevent the enemy from tracking you (as they would do if you marched in a single file) till you get over such ground, and then resume your former order and march till it is quite dark before you encamp, which do, if possible, on a piece of ground which that may afford your sentries the advantage of seeing or hearing the enemy some considerable distance, keeping one half of your whole party awake alternately through the night.
  4. Some time before you come to the place you would reconnoiter, make a stand, and send one or two men in whom you can confide, to look out the best ground for making your observations.
  5. If you have the good fortune to take any prisoners, keep them separate, till they are examined, and in your return take a different route from that in which you went out, that you may the better discover any party in your rear, and have an opportunity, if their strength be superior to yours, to alter your course, or disperse, as circumstances may require.
  6. If you march in a large body of three or four hundred, with a design to attack the enemy, divide your party into three columns, each headed by a proper officer, and let those columns march in single files, the columns to the right and left keeping at twenty yards distance or more from that of the center, if the ground will admit, and let proper guards be kept in the front and rear, and suitable flanking parties at a due distance as before directed, with orders to halt on all eminences, to take a view of the surrounding ground, to prevent your being ambuscaded, and to notify the approach or retreat of the enemy, that proper dispositions may be made for attacking, defending. And if the enemy approach in your front on level ground, form a front of your three columns or main body with the advanced guard, keeping out your flanking parties, as if you were marching under the command of trusty officers, to prevent the enemy from pressing hard on either of your wings, or surrounding you, which is the usual method of the savages, if their number will admit of it, and be careful likewise to support and strengthen your rear-guard.
  7. If you are obliged to receive the enemy’s fire, fall, or squat down, till it is over; then rise and discharge at them. If their main body is equal to yours, extend yourselves occasionally; but if superior, be careful to support and strengthen your flanking parties, to make them equal to theirs, that if possible you may repulse them to their main body, in which case push upon them with the greatest resolution with equal force in each flank and in the center, observing to keep at a due distance from each other, and advance from tree to tree, with one half of the party before the other ten or twelve yards. If the enemy push upon you, let your front fire and fall down, and then let your rear advance thro’ them and do the like, by which time those who before were in front will be ready to discharge again, and repeat the same alternatively, as occasion shall require; by this means you will keep up such a constant fire, that the enemy will not be able easily to break your order, or gain your ground.
  8.  If you oblige the enemy to retreat, be careful, in your pursuit of them to keep out your flanking parties, and prevent them from gaining eminences, or rising grounds, in which case they would perhaps be able to rally and repulse you in their turn.
  9. If you are obliged to retreat, let the front of your whole party fire and fall back, till the rear hath done the same, making for the best ground you can; by this means you will oblige the enemy to pursue you, if they do it at all, in the face of a constant fire.
  10. If the enemy is so superior that you are in danger of being surrounded by them, let the whole body disperse, and every one take a different road to the place of rendezvous appointed for that evening, which must every morning be altered and fixed for the evening ensuing, in order to bring the whole party, or as many of them as possible, together, after any separation that may happen in the day; but if you should happen to be actually surrounded, form yourselves into a square, or if in the woods, a circle is best, and, if possible, make a stand till the darkness of the night favors your escape.
  11. If your rear is attacked, the main body and flankers must face about to the right or left, as occasion shall require, and form themselves to oppose the enemy, as before directed; and the same method must be observed, if attacked in either of your flanks, by which means you will always make a rear of one of your flank-guards.
  12. If you determine to rally after a retreat, in order to make a fresh stand against the enemy, by all means endeavor to do it on the most rising ground you come at, which will give you greatly the advantage in point of situation, and enable you to repulse superior numbers.
  13. In general, when pushed upon by the enemy, reserve your fire till they approach very near, which will then put them into the greatest surprise and consternation, and give you an opportunity of rushing upon them with your hatchets and cutlasses to the better advantage.
  14. When you encamp at night, fix your sentries in such a manner as not to be relieved from the main body till morning, profound secrecy and silence being often of the last importance in these cases. Each sentry therefore should consist of six men, two of whom must be constantly alert, and when relieved by their fellows, it should be done without noise; and in case those on duty see or hear anything, which alarms them, they are not to speak, but one of them is silently to retreat, that proper dispositions may be made; and all occasional sentries should be fixed in like manner.
  15. At the first dawn of day, awake your whole detachment; that being the time when the savages choose to fall upon their enemies, you should by all means be in readiness to receive them.
  16. If the enemy should be discovered by your detachments in the morning, and their numbers are superior to yours, and a victory doubtful, you should not attack them till the evening, as then 3 they will not know your numbers, and if you are repulsed, your retreat will be favored by the darkness of the night.
  17. Before you leave your encampment, send out small parties to scout round it, to see if there be any appearance or track of an enemy that might have been near you during the night.
  18. When you stop for refreshment, choose some spring or rivulet if you can, and dispose your party so as not to be surprised, posting proper guards and sentries at a due distance, and let a small party waylay the path came in, lest the enemy should be pursuing.
  19. If, in your return, you have to cross rivers, avoid the usual fords as much as possible, lest the enemy should have discovered, and be there expecting you.
  20. If you have to pass by lakes, keep at some distance from the edge of the water, lest, in case of an ambuscade or an attack from the enemy, when in that situation, your retreat should be cut off.
  21. If the enemy pursue your rear, take a circle till you come to your own tracks, and there form an ambush to receive them, and give them the first fire.
  22. When you return from a scout, and come near our forts, avoid the usual roads, and avenues thereto, lest the enemy should have headed you, and lay in ambush to receive you, when almost exhausted with fatigues.
  23. When you pursue any party that has been near our forts or encampments, follow not directly in their tracks, lest they should be discovered by their rear-guards, who, at such a time, would be most alert; but endeavor, by a different route, to head and meet them in some narrow pass, or lay in ambush to receive them when and where they least expect it.
  24. If you are to embark in canoes, battoes, or otherwise, by water, choose the evening for the time of your embarkation, as you will then have the whole night before you, to pass undiscovered by any parties of the enemy, on hills, or other places, which command a prospect of the lake or river you are upon.
  25. In paddling or rowing, give orders that the boat or canoe next the sternmost, wait for her, and the third for the second, and the fourth for the third, and so on, to prevent separation, and that you may be ready to assist each other on any emergency.
  26.  Appoint one man in each boat to look out for fires, on the adjacent shores, from the number and size of which you may form some judgment of the number that kindled them, and whether you are able to attack them or not.
  27. If you find the enemy encamped near the banks of a river or lake, which you imagine they will attempt to cross for their security upon being attacked, leave a detachment of your party on the opposite shore to receive them, while, with the remainder, you surprise them, having them between you and the lake or river.
  28. If you cannot satisfy yourself as to the enemy’s number and strength, from their fires, conceal your boats at some distance, and ascertain their number by a reconnoitering party, when they embark, or march, in the morning, marking the course they steer, when you may pursue, ambush, and attack them, or let them pass, as prudence shall direct you. In general, however, that you may not be discovered by the enemy upon the lakes and rivers at a great distance, it is safest to lay by, with your boats and party concealed all day, without noise or shew; and to pursue your intended route by night; and whether you go by land or water, give out parole and countersigns, in order to know one another in the dark, and likewise appoint a station for every man to repair to, in case of any accident that may separate you.

Rogers “Standing Orders”

The Book “Northwest Passage” popularized and paraphrased Roger’s Standing Orders. These are the Standing Orders that are in the current Ranger Handbook and taught to modern day Rangers:

  1. Don’t forget nothing.
  2. Have your musket clean as a whistle, hatchet scoured, sixty rounds powder and ball, and be ready to march at a minute’s warning.
  3. When you’re on the march, act the way you would if you was sneaking up on a deer. See the enemy first.
  4. Tell the truth about what you see and what you do. There is an army depending on us for correct information. You can lie all you please when you tell other folks about the Rangers, but don’t never lie to a Ranger or officer.
  5. Don’t never take a chance you don’t have to.
  6. When we’re on the march we march single file, far enough apart so one shot can’t go through two men.
  7. If we strike swamps, or soft ground, we spread out abreast, so it’s hard to track us.
  8. When we march, we keep moving till dark, so as to give the enemy the least possible chance at us.
  9. When we camp, half the party stays awake while the other half sleeps.
  10. If we take prisoners, we keep’em separate till we have had time to examine them, so they can’t cook up a story between’em.
  11. Don’t ever march home the same way. Take a different route so you won’t be ambushed.
  12. No matter whether we travel in big parties or little ones, each party has to keep a scout 20 yards ahead, 20 yards on each flank, and 20 yards in the rear so the main body can’t be surprised and wiped out.
  13. Every night you’ll be told where to meet if surrounded by a superior force.
  14. Don’t sit down to eat without posting sentries. 15. Don’t sleep beyond dawn. Dawn’s when the French and Indians attack.
  15. Don’t cross a river by a regular ford.
  16. If somebody’s trailing you, make a circle, come back onto your own tracks, and ambush the folks that aim to ambush you.
  17. Don’t stand up when the enemy’s coming against you. Kneel down, lie down, hide behind a tree.
  18. Let the enemy come till he’s almost close enough to touch, then let him have it and jump out and finish him up with your hatchet.

Source: https://ranger.org/Resources/Documents/History-Roger%27s%20Rangers.pdf

The New U.S. Military Combat Utility Knife


“He’s got a hip knife, a side knife, a boot knife, a shoulder knife, and a little bitty one that’s a combination flare gun, dinner set, and genuine police whistle…”

Lyrics from the song Garet Trooper by Barry Sadler

Every man needs a pocket knife. It serves both as a tool for daily tasks and as a weapon for self-defense in extreme situations. For field work a prepared individual may carry up to three knifes or more. In the field I generally carry a pocket knife for general purpose, a multitool on my belt for more technical tasks, and, if appropriate for the mission, a combat knife for more heavy duty work. But for now, we will be discussing the new U.S. Military pocket knife – the Combat Utility Knife. One must keep in mind that this is a utility knife and not a combat knife. I suppose that John Wick can use the 3.25” locking blade to take out his adversaries, but for the rest of us the only thing we will be cutting is parachute cord, opening our mail, or cutting the straps off of a case of MRE’s so you can grab the best meals… And this knife is not a replacement for a multitool, which is designed for other functions more mechanical in nature.

For decades the standard military pocket knife was the Camillus “demo” knife (model 1760), a very basic and very unsexy utility knife (I carried one for many years in the pocket of my field pants).

Camillus Model 1760 “demo” knife

But now there is a new knife in town, the Victorinox “Combat Utility Knife”. This updated military pocket knife is not only more useful, but far better looking, than the trusty demo knife.

Let’s take a closer look at this new model.

The new U.S. Military Combat Utility Knife

The knife is made by Victorinox (pronounced vic-TOR-ee-nox) in Switzerland, makers of the world-famous Swiss Army knives. All of the blades and implements are stainless steel coated with black oxide which gives the knife the required tactical look as compared to its polished blade civilian siblings.

The handle, or scales according to Victorinox, has proprietary U.S. markings on one side and is made of a two-component material, dual-density Polyamide, with the green parts being hard plastic and the black parts being softer rubbery material for a better non-slip grip.

The full metal liner contains the large (main) blade which has a hole for easy one-handed opening. The blade has a 3.25” cutting edge which is approximately 2/3 serrated (great for cutting thick rope) and 1/3 straight edge. The main blade locks in the open position and is released by pushing the locking liner to the right. The blade also has the year of manufacture stamped on the tang in 2-digits.

On the same pivot is a very capable bi-directional saw blade, which means it cuts in both directions – pushing and pulling. The saw blade is non-locking and designed for cutting wood, but it does a great job on cardboard and other similar materials. There is also a tried and true can opener (non-locking) with a small 3mm flathead screwdriver.

On the other end is a bottle opener with a large 5mm flathead screwdriver. The tool snaps into the 90-degree position and locks into the fully open position. At the base of the bottle opener is a wire stripper/wire bender. Unlocking the tool is the same as the large blade – pushing the locking liner to the right.

On the back, or spine, of the knife is a Phillips head screwdriver (size 1-2), non-locking, which can be used as a t-handle screwdriver. There is also a non-locking reamer (not an awl – there is a difference) which can be used for punching/drilling holes in plastic, leather, or wood.

And last is the lanyard ring which can be used to attach a “dummy cord” for all those absent-minded people who tend to lose things.

Overall the Combat Utility Knife is a well-designed and manufactured knife that should serve the user well for many years of tough use. And Victorinox backs their knives with a lifetime warranty.

The specifications:

  • Length open (large blade open): 7.75”
  • Length closed: 4.4”
  • Thickness: .7”
  • Weight: 4.7 oz.
  • Length of large blade (cutting edge): 3.25”
  • Length of saw blade (cutting edge): 3.5”

10 functions:

  1. Large blade with serrated edge, lockable
  2. Reamer, punch
  3. Bottle opener
  4. Screwdriver 5mm, lockable
  5. Wire stripper
  6. Wood saw
  7. Phillips screwdriver
  8. Can opener
  9. Screwdriver 3mm
  10. Lanyard ring

The “Other” versions

Some of you will notice that this Combat Utility Knife looks much like some other knives on the market, such as the Victorinox “Soldiers Knife 08”, “German Army Knife”, and the “Onehanded Trekker”. The obvious difference is the U.S. Military version has black oxide coated blades and U.S. marked handle. The Trekker additionally has the always popular toothpick and tweezers normally seen on civilian Victorinox Swiss Army knives. These knifes are all available for order through Amazon or other retail sources.

Victorinox Soldiers Knife 08
Victorinox German Army Knife
Victorinox Onehanded Trekker


This new U.S. Military Combat Utility Knife is a fantastic utility knife and a long-overdue replacement for the old demo knife. I will still be using my SOG folder as my everyday carry knife as the Combat Utility Knife does not have a pocket clip (one can be glued on if desired), but this knife will be in my pocket whenever I go out into the field for shooting, hunting, camping, and any other action-related activities.

Where to get one

This U.S. Military version is not available through the Victorinox catalog or website, and it is not available on Amazon or through any store or retail outlet (the civilian version and siblings are available through retail outlets). For the military, the “Knife, Combat Utility” can be ordered through DLA using NSN 1095–01–653–1166. For all others, if you ask nicely, you can order the knife through the US Distributor, The Windrose Group, LLC at:

Joe Traurig, Manufacturers Rep for Government & Military Sales

(215) 947-0200 or (215) 913-1951

email: [email protected]

And don’t forget to tell Joe that 18Bravo sent you…

Copyright 2020 18Bravo

Selecting a Heavy Rifle


I like big bullets and bayonets. I am an old school infantry guy, Ranger, and SF weapons man. I like big bullets that can reach out and punch big holes. And when the bullets run out I want my bayonet to continue the fight. After my military service defending my country, I am now ready to defend myself, my family, my home, and my community.

In selecting my “heavy rifle” (the 3-Gun term for large caliber rifles) I want a military grade rifle that I know will take abuse and still perform. I want a rifle that I can depend on to save my life, save the lives of my family, and to save the lives of those that need saving. I shoot in competitions and I want a rifle that I can use to maintain and improve the skills I learned in the military. And I hunt so I want a rifle that is accurate and reliable and able to take down big game.

So these are my requirements for my main rifle: one I can use for defense, competition, and hunting.

I developed the following requirements in order to conduct my search:

  • Large caliber: .308/7.62mm, using commercially available ammunition
  • Bayonet lug: the ability to mount a military bayonet (my favorite is the current USMC OKC3S bayonet)
  • Integrated rail: a full top rail, and optional rails at 3, 6, and 9
  • Forward Assist: or forward assist type functionality
  • Standard magazine: uses the current standard for .308/7.62mm rifles, the MagPul Gen 3 magazine
  • Suppressor capable: for hunting
  • Accurate: accurate to 1000 meters (1 MOA) on a man-size target
  • Ambidextrous Controls: for the safety, magazine release, and bolt release
  • Made in USA: no explanation required
  • Modern Sporting Rifle design: AR type design or current military design (such as the FN SCAR)

I looked at 32 commercially available rifles:

Vendor Model
Aero Precision M5E1
Armalite AR-10 18-inch Tactical
Bushmaster MOE 308 ORC
Colt MARC 901 (LE901-16SE)
Daniel Defense DD5V1
Desert Tech MDR
Grey Ghost Specter Heavy 308
HK MR762A1
JP Enterprises JP LRP-07
LaRue PredatAR 7.62
Les Bauer Mid-Length Monolith 308 SWAT
Patriot Ordnance Skirmish Heavy
Patriot Ordnance P-308
Primary Weapons Systems Mk216
Rock River Arms LAR-8
Ruger SR-762
Seekins Precision SP-10
Sig Sauer SIG716 DMR
Smith & Wesson M&P10
Troy Rifle 7.62
Wilson Combat 308
Windham Weaponry R16SFST-308


Of these 32 weapons only four met my basic requirements:

  • Bushmaster MOE 308 ORC
  • Colt MARC 901 (LE901-16SE)
  • DPMS MK 12
  • Sig Sauer SIG716 DMR

(sorry the FN SCAR 17S, an obvious contender, did not have a bayonet lug)

Of these four only the Colt LE901 met the majority of the requirements – so I selected the Colt as my new heavy rifle.

Colt MARC 901
Colt MARC 901 with Trijicon TA11E

It has:

  • User Configurable 1-Piece Upper Receiver with Back Up Iron Sights (BUIS)
  • Full Floated Barrel
  • Bayonet Lug
  • Vortex Flash Hider (suppressor ready)
  • Ambidextrous Controls
  • Accepts Mil-Spec 5.56 Uppers (not a requirement but an interesting option)

I mounted a Trijicon ACOG TA-11E that I had and I was off on my new project: Project 901, where I test the platform and select the needed accessories for my new heavy rifle.








Next up – Project 901: Colt MARC 901 Basics